Diner – Elvis Ate Here

This was Elvis' favourite booth. His picture marks his spot. Could be him, couldn't it?

This was Elvis’ favourite booth. His picture marks his spot. Could be him, couldn’t it?

For the past month, as we have travelled across the top of the US on I-80, down through California and along I-40 to Memphis, our most recent stop, I have looked for authentic diners. In their heyday, during the first two thirds of the 20th century, nearly 7,000 diners dotted the American landscape. They were THE stop for travellers on classic roads like Route 66, or for those looking for a hearty, inexpensive meal in many cities.

Today fewer than 2,000 remain and most of those are in the east. So looking for one in the Midwest and west was like searching for a needle in a haystack. The fast food chains have supplanted this uniquely American institution in the hearts and appetites of Americans. So imagine my delight when, in Memphis, I found The Arcade, a diner that has been around since 1919! Continue reading

Hot Stuff – Chiles

peppers sMy mouth is on fire!

My first bite of adovada, pork cooked slowly in a sauce of red chilies, leaves me gasping. I’m trying this New Mexican classic at a 40 year old Santa Fe restaurant, The Shed, which specializes in local cuisine. This warning should be on the menu:  Do not order unless you have an asbestos tongue!
adovada sNew Mexico is all about food….and art….and music…and history….but mostly about food! And in New Mexico, food begins and ends with chilies or chiles. Huge ristras (bundled chains of red chilies) decorate the doorways of homes, drying in the sun. People eat chilies at breakfast, lunch and dinner, and chilies are incorporated into everything from sauces and condiments to honey, jams and even marmalade! Continue reading

Life by the Rock – Morro Bay

Life by the Rock - Morro Rock at sunset

Sunset on the rock at Morro Bay is spectacular.

California can be uber-sophisticated. Smart boutiques, fabulous restaurants and a very walkable main street make towns like Carmel elegantly approachable. But a couple of hours down the coast along the incredibly scenic Highway 1 (the distance is short but the twists and turns of the road make it a long drive), you come to two small towns. Both are dominated by the rock, a crouching giant in Morro Bay’s harbour and both seem anchored in a time long gone.

Morro Bay and Caycos remind me of beach towns decades back. I don’t mean that they are simply old fashioned. But they have a nostalgic approach to being beach towns – comfortable, relatively inexpensive and with a line in the kind of kitsch everyone took home when I was a kid. Continue reading

Whatta Choke!

castroville-artichoke-ranch-980x360We were looking for the Artichoke Center of the World. So we drove into Watsonville  – where nobody knew what we were talking about.

Ed recalled visiting Watsonville, California many years ago and learning that it held this title. But alas! No longer. Castroville is the current Artichoke Center. In fact, Half Moon Bay should probably hold the title, since it was the first place in America to grow artichokes. These were brought to the New World by Spanish settlers. Continue reading

Ogallala, Nebraska – Prairies and Prairie Oysters

ogallala saloonFor three days we’ve been driving west on Highway 80…I-80 is the Interstate Highway that most closely approximates the route of the historic Lincoln Highway, the first road across America. It also roughly traces two other historically significant travel routes, the Oregon Trail across Wyoming and Nebraska, and the Mormon route through to the Great Salt Lake.

big skiesCovering great flat swaths of open prairie, with huge expanses of sky in every direction, the road might be boring but for the periodic photo-worthy glimpses of bare tree branches against setting sun, or coal black cattle framed against the sand-coloured fields now plowed for next year. Continue reading